[Basic Sewing Tools] Introducing needles, threads, fabrics, and useful tools.

Having an easy-to-use sewing box and tools will make crafting even more enjoyable. This time, we'll introduce some commonly seen sewing tools. Having knowledge about materials will also make crafting easier.

Basic sewing tools

◇Sewing tools

① Pincushion and needles

A cushion used to rest needles is called a pincushion. If you rest sewing needles with the thread still threaded through them, they won't sink into the pincushion.

② Sewing thread and basting thread

Basting thread is loosely twisted cotton thread. It's used to prevent thread slippage during sewing, for temporary stitching, and for marking stitches. For hand sewing, please prepare white and black thread first.

③ Thimble

Wear it on your right middle finger, and when hand-sewing, place the needle against it and sew while pressing down on the back of the needle.

◇Tools for measuring length

④ Ruler

A transparent one with a grid pattern is convenient.

⑤ Major

It is used when measuring non-flat objects, such as body measurements, or when measuring the length of a curved section of a pattern by holding it upright.

◇ Useful tools

⑥ Rotary Cutter

A cutting tool that rotates its teeth like a roulette wheel. It's also effective for cutting multiple pieces of material into the same shape, such as when making patchwork pieces.

⑦ Awl

It's useful for detailed tasks such as sewing fabric into a bag and neatening the corners after turning it inside out.

◇ Cutting tools

⑧ Thread scissors

Because you hold it in your hand while cutting, it's suitable for detailed work.

⑨ Paper scissors

Needed when cutting out patterns.

⑩ Tailor's scissors

These are scissors for cutting fabric. Cutting paper will dull them, so always use separate scissors for paper and fabric.

⑪ Ripper

It's used when undoing machine stitches, or when making cuts after sewing around a buttonhole.

◇ Marking tools

⑫ Chaco (Chalk pencil)

There are various types available, including solid, powder, and water-soluble pen-type products, so you can choose the one that best suits the fabric color and purpose.

⑬ Spatula

Mark thin cotton or silk fabrics by imprinting patterns onto them.

⑭ Roulette

There are two types: one with a rounded tip and one with a pointed tip. The pointed one is for paper and is used when transferring patterns onto separate sheets of paper.

⑮ Fabric copy paper

There are single-sided and double-sided types. You place the fabric transfer paper between the fabric or the design and mark it with a tracing wheel with a rounded tip.

Let's learn about needles!

There are so many different types of needles, aren't there? Some are for creating beautiful, strong stitches, while others are for finishing embroidery perfectly. They come in a wide variety of types, thicknesses, and lengths. This time, we'll focus on hand-sewing needles and craft needles.

◇Introducing the different types of hand-sewing needles and craft needles!

① Hand sewing needle

These are also called American needles. They come in sizes 1 through 12, and each size has both long and short needles. The higher the number, the thinner and shorter the needle. If you have a size 6 needle for cardboard and button sewing, sizes 7 and 8 for regular fabrics, and size 9 for thin fabrics, you can handle most fabrics.

② Sashiko needle

Since you'll be stitching thick fabric with thick thread, you'll need a thick, long needle with a large eye. A size 5 long needle from the American needles brand will work.

③ French embroidery needle

The needle has a large eye, making it easy to thread. It also features low friction between the thread and fabric, so the thread is less likely to get damaged. Ribbon embroidery is also possible.

④ Cross-stitch needle

The needle tip is rounded, allowing you to embroider even with fine stitches without splitting the threads.

⑤ Patchwork needle

A short needle for detailed piecework. A size 8 short sewing needle will also work.

⑥ Quilting basting needles

These needles are thin and long, designed to handle the thickness of three layers: the outer fabric, the batting, and the backing fabric.

⑦ Quilting needle

These are short, stiff needles to prevent them from bending. A size 9 short sewing needle will also work.

⑧ Beading needle

It's made thin enough to fit through the holes of small beads.

◇Introducing different types of pins!

① Silk pin

It's very thin, and the head is so small you might lose sight of it, but it doesn't get in the way when you're making it.

② Pins

These are common pins with a small ball at the top. Those with glass balls can be ironed. It's a good idea to use long pins for holding patterns in place and short pins for appliqué.

③ Cell pins

The head is large and easy to handle.

◇Direction in which to insert pins

Pins are used to ensure that sewing lines are aligned precisely, so first insert them onto the sewing line and bring them out on the seam allowance side. The basic rule is to insert them perpendicular to the sewing line.

◇ Order and spacing of pins

The basic technique is to stitch "both ends → center → in between". For patchwork or when sewing small pieces of fabric together precisely, use a smaller spacing of 1.5cm to 2cm. Even when hand-sewing, you can widen the spacing a bit for larger pieces of fabric. For machine sewing, a spacing of about 20cm is fine for straight lines!

Let's learn about thread!

◇Introducing the different types of yarn!

Just like needles, there are many different types of thread. These days, a wide variety of threads are sold, each with different materials, twists, and thicknesses to suit various purposes. However, specialized threads are still the easiest to use. This time, we'll introduce some of the most commonly used and versatile threads.

① Sewing thread

They come in various forms, such as card-wound and coil-wound. The coil-wound polyester ones are the easiest to use.

② Sewing thread

Polyester thread is recommended. Use 90-count thread for thin fabrics, 60-count thread for medium-weight fabrics, and 30-count thread for thick fabrics, but if you're unsure, 60-count thread is always a safe bet.

③ Overlock sewing thread

A serger is used to finish the edges of fabric. It uses a set of 3 to 4 cone-shaped threads.

④ Basting thread

This cotton thread is used to loosely hold the fabric in place before the main stitching to prevent it from shifting.

⑤ Patchwork yarn

A thin thread that won't become bulky even when the seam allowance is pressed to one side during piecework.

⑥ Quilting thread

A thick, strong thread is recommended. The thread is treated with wax to improve its smoothness, making it suitable for quilting.

⑦ Silk thread

It has beautiful colors and a unique luster and texture. While not as strong as polyester yarn, it pairs well with silk and wool fabrics.

⑧ Embroidery thread

The material is cotton and comes in a wide variety of colors. The most common is No. 25 embroidery thread, which is usually sold in skeins of six strands. There are also thicker threads than No. 25, such as No. 8 and No. 5, as well as wool, linen, and silk threads.

Let's learn about fabric!

This time, we'll be focusing on cotton fabrics that are easy for beginners to sew.

◇ Plain weave cotton fabric of ordinary weight

① Gingham

It has a friendly and refreshing quality and is used for a variety of purposes.

② Eighty Square

It's easy to sew through and is suitable for patchwork.

③ Sheeting

The fabric has a slightly coarse weave, giving it a simple and soft texture.

④ Broad

It is characterized by its firm texture and luster. The thread density is high, making it durable, but it is not suitable for hand sewing because it is difficult to sew through.

⑤ Dungaree

This fabric is woven using colored threads for the warp and white threads for the weft. It is used for shirts and other garments.

◇Sheer fabric

⑥ Loan

It has a thin, smooth texture. It is often used for handkerchiefs and similar items.

⑦ Gauze (double gauze)

A soft, lightweight fabric with a loose weave. Double gauze, woven in two layers, is easy to handle as a clothing fabric.

◇Thick cotton cloth

⑧ Denim

This is a familiar fabric used in jeans and other similar garments. Because it's thick, it's not very suitable for hand-sewing.

⑨ Chino

This is the same durable fabric used for chinos.

◇Other fabrics

Summer fabric

⑩ Soccer

This fabric has a textured, uneven surface. It's not suitable for creating a neat, structured silhouette.

・Cotton fabric with a pile

⑪ Corduroy

This fabric has a short pile and a wavy texture. It's a winter cotton material.

・Knitted fabric

⑫ Cotton jersey

This knit fabric has a fine weave, is thin and soft. Some versions have a pile-like backing.

Let's learn how to use the tools and materials and understand their characteristics!

Having knowledge about tools and materials will help you avoid mistakes and achieve a beautiful finished product. Master these skills and enrich your crafting life.

Also, make sure to store your tools properly. Here's how to organize your sewing box.

Smart ways to store sewing supplies: embroidery thread, needles, fabric, and beads.

The Couturier blog also features lots of other helpful information, from basic sewing procedures to more elaborate embroidery techniques. Be sure to check it out! Also, don't miss the Couturier shop, which sells DIY kits, and our official social media accounts!

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